fix(app): fix sidebar crash when switching iOS theme

Unistyles' StyleSheet.create((theme) => ...) wraps styled components in
<UnistylesComponent> and patches native view properties via C++. When
these dynamic styles are applied to Reanimated's Animated.View, a theme
change causes both systems to fight over the same native node, crashing
with "Unable to find node on an unmounted component."

Fix: use plain React Native StyleSheet for static positioning on
Animated.View, and pass theme-dependent values (backgroundColor) as
inline styles from useUnistyles() instead of Unistyles dynamic sheets.

Also:
- Add gestureAnimatingRef to prevent double withTiming during gesture opens
- Remove all debug instrumentation added during investigation
- Add Maestro flow and bash script for automated theme-toggle verification
- Add docs/MOBILE_TESTING.md covering Maestro patterns, self-verification
  loops, the Unistyles+Reanimated pitfall, and simulator commands

docs/MOBILE_TESTING.md

@@ -0,0 +1,206 @@
+# Mobile Testing
+
+## Maestro
+
+Maestro flows live in `packages/app/maestro/`. Reusable sub-flows live in `packages/app/maestro/flows/`.
+
+Run a flow:
+
+```bash
+maestro test packages/app/maestro/my-flow.yaml
+```
+
+### Screenshots
+
+`takeScreenshot` writes to the **current working directory** — there's no way to configure the output path in the YAML. To keep screenshots out of the checkout, `cd` into a temp directory and use an absolute path for the flow:
+
+```bash
+FLOW="$(pwd)/packages/app/maestro/my-flow.yaml"
+mkdir -p /tmp/maestro-out
+cd /tmp/maestro-out && maestro test "$FLOW"
+```
+
+`packages/app/maestro/.gitignore` excludes `*.png` as a safety net.
+
+### Element targeting
+
+Use `testID` or `nativeID` on components, then target with `id:` in flows. Prefer this over text matching — text breaks on copy changes.
+
+```tsx
+// Component
+<Pressable testID="sidebar-sessions" onPress={onPress}>
+```
+
+```yaml
+# Flow
+- tapOn:
+    id: "sidebar-sessions"
+- assertVisible:
+    id: "sidebar-sessions"
+```
+
+### Conditional steps
+
+Use `runFlow:when:visible` for steps that should only execute when a specific element is on screen:
+
+```yaml
+- runFlow:
+    when:
+      visible:
+        id: "sidebar-sessions"
+    commands:
+      - swipe:
+          direction: LEFT
+          duration: 300
+```
+
+This is how `flows/dev-client.yaml` handles Expo dev client screens that only appear in dev builds.
+
+### Don't use launchApp against a running dev app
+
+`launchApp` kills and restarts the app, disrupting Expo dev client state and host connections. For flows that test against an already-running dev app, **omit launchApp entirely** — just interact with whatever is on screen.
+
+Use `launchApp` only in flows that need a clean start (e.g., onboarding tests).
+
+### Swipe gestures
+
+Use `start`/`end` with percentage coordinates for precise control:
+
+```yaml
+# Edge swipe from left to open sidebar
+- swipe:
+    start: "5%,50%"
+    end: "80%,50%"
+    duration: 300
+```
+
+`direction: RIGHT` is simpler but less precise — use it for generic swipes, use coordinates when the start position matters (edge gestures, avoiding specific UI regions).
+
+### Assertions
+
+`assertVisible` checks **actual screen visibility**, not just view tree presence. An element that exists in the tree but is off-screen (e.g., `translateX: -400`) will correctly fail `assertVisible`. This makes it reliable for catching animation bugs where state says "open" but the view is visually hidden.
+
+For async elements, use `extendedWaitUntil`:
+
+```yaml
+- extendedWaitUntil:
+    visible: ".*Online.*"
+    timeout: 90000
+```
+
+### Dev client handling
+
+Two reusable flows handle Expo dev client screens after launch:
+
+- `flows/launch.yaml` — handles dev launcher, dismisses dev menu, asserts "Welcome to Paseo"
+- `flows/dev-client.yaml` — same but without asserting a particular app route
+
+## Self-verification loops
+
+Maestro can only interact with the app UI — it can't toggle iOS appearance, change locale, or simulate network conditions. For bugs that depend on system-level state, wrap Maestro in a bash script that handles the system changes between Maestro runs.
+
+This pattern also lets agents self-verify fixes without manual user testing.
+
+### Pattern
+
+1. Run baseline Maestro flow (confirm feature works)
+2. Make system-level change via `xcrun simctl` (toggle appearance, etc.)
+3. Re-run Maestro flow (confirm feature still works)
+4. Repeat N iterations to catch intermittent failures
+
+Scripts run `maestro test` from inside a temp directory so screenshots don't dirty the checkout.
+
+See `packages/app/maestro/test-sidebar-theme.sh` for the canonical example:
+
+```bash
+bash packages/app/maestro/test-sidebar-theme.sh 6 1
+# Args: iterations=6, wait_seconds=1 between toggle and test
+```
+
+Key elements of the script pattern:
+
+```bash
+set -euo pipefail
+ITERATIONS="${1:-3}"
+
+for i in $(seq 1 "$ITERATIONS"); do
+  # Toggle system state
+  xcrun simctl ui booted appearance light
+
+  # Wait for change to propagate
+  sleep 1
+
+  # Run Maestro flow and capture result
+  if maestro test "$FLOW" 2>&1 | tee "$ITER_DIR/test.log"; then
+    echo "PASS"
+  else
+    echo "FAIL"
+    xcrun simctl io booted screenshot "$ITER_DIR/failure-state.png"
+  fi
+done
+```
+
+## Unistyles + Reanimated
+
+### The crash
+
+Applying Unistyles theme-reactive styles (`StyleSheet.create((theme) => ...)`) directly to `Animated.View` causes **"Unable to find node on an unmounted component"** on theme change.
+
+Unistyles wraps styled components in `<UnistylesComponent>` and patches native view properties via C++. Reanimated also manages the same native node for animated transforms. When the theme changes, both systems try to update the node simultaneously and the view crashes.
+
+### The fix
+
+Use plain React Native `StyleSheet.create` for static positioning on `Animated.View`. Pass theme-dependent values as inline styles from `useUnistyles()`:
+
+```tsx
+// BAD: Unistyles dynamic style on Animated.View
+const styles = StyleSheet.create((theme) => ({
+  sidebar: {
+    position: "absolute",
+    top: 0,
+    left: 0,
+    bottom: 0,
+    backgroundColor: theme.colors.surfaceSidebar, // theme-reactive
+    overflow: "hidden",
+  },
+}));
+
+<Animated.View style={[styles.sidebar, animatedStyle]} />
+```
+
+```tsx
+// GOOD: static stylesheet + inline theme values
+import { StyleSheet as RNStyleSheet } from "react-native";
+
+const staticStyles = RNStyleSheet.create({
+  sidebar: {
+    position: "absolute",
+    top: 0,
+    left: 0,
+    bottom: 0,
+    overflow: "hidden",
+  },
+});
+
+const { theme } = useUnistyles();
+
+<Animated.View
+  style={[staticStyles.sidebar, animatedStyle, { backgroundColor: theme.colors.surfaceSidebar }]}
+/>
+```
+
+Regular `View` components can safely use Unistyles dynamic styles — the conflict is specific to `Animated.View`.
+
+## iOS Simulator
+
+```bash
+# Screenshot
+xcrun simctl io booted screenshot /tmp/screenshot.png
+
+# Dark/light mode
+xcrun simctl ui booted appearance          # check current
+xcrun simctl ui booted appearance dark     # set dark
+xcrun simctl ui booted appearance light    # set light
+```
+
+Expo dev server logs are in the tmux pane running `npm run dev`. Daemon logs are at `$PASEO_HOME/daemon.log` (see [DEVELOPMENT.md](DEVELOPMENT.md)).